Gophers...again?

The garden was "gopher free" for quite a while. I have been terribly remiss in posting about the gardens' progress. I grew a fabulous crop of chard and kohlrabi. Due to fluctuations of hot and cold while the broccoli was developing, the taste was rather bitter. The cabbage bolted, which is due also to weather fluctuations. However, I am beginning to think that certain crops (i.e. cabbage, Brussels sprouts) really need to be started much earlier. For the future, I am going to aim for late August.

I was really proud of my kohlrabi, I had never grown it before and couldn't believe how easy it was. The root is large and tastes like a mixture of broccoli, radish and jicama. Very good!

Unfortunately, I have spotted a new gopher hole, something I knew was bound to happen. Time to get out the gophinator and put it to work!

Success!

I am happy to report that after battling gophers for almost an entire year, we have successfully trapped and gotten rid of 2. One of them was particularly chunky, as she/he had been living off of our hearty winter garden. As you can see, the onions escaped unscathed. We harvested and dried them last month.

Sadly, our 2 foot trench and three days of back breaking work did NOT stop the rodents. Our Ag Assistant, Isaiah, believed there was an underground labyrinth of computer technology and smarts created by evil gopher underlords. At one point I was inclined to believe him.

Having gophers in one's garden, I have found, can be an unbelievably discouraging experience. Not only do they create unsightly holes and mounds, but they snatch garden goodies before they are ready for harvest, which upsets even the kindliest of gardeners.

So how did we do it? A brand new trap called "the Gophinator" did the trick. Within a 24 hour period, we caught both perpetrators. Now I can look forward to adding additional crops to the garden. We still have a few tomatoes, peppers and eggplants that escaped unscathed. And a few short vine cantaloupes. I'm going to add some pumpkins next.

The Battle Goes On...

We have harvested and eaten some beautiful, colorful salads. The above photo was taken last month. The salads are fresh and flavorful. And harvesting the vegetables is a fun activity.

In other news, the gopher is still eluding us. The rodent mind must be far more clever than I give it credit for. My mistake! I have fired our Ag Assistant several times now. But I keep re-hiring him back.

The latest attempt will be to surround the garden bed with a 1 1/2 foot trench, then sink in chicken wire. Gophers dig their feeding tunnels about 6-12 inches below the surface, but we are going to take the precaution of going deeper. For more information about gophers, see the UCCE Pest Note below. Their burrows may be almost 6 feet deep, so my hope is we will either exclude or trap him inside.
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html

The project has been about half eaten so far, with complete annihilation of the broccoli, green cabbage, cauliflower and half of the Brussels sprouts and purple cabbage. So far the lettuce and carrots are safe, (excuse me while I go knock on wood) and only a few spinach and Swiss chard are missing. Hopefully there will be some colorful carrots to harvest, as I did plant yellow, purple, red and white.

This has definitely been a good exercise in how to deal with pests in a garden setting. I feel I will have plenty of advice for home and school gardeners that deal with sparrows and gophers!

Another Nemesis?

Photo by Jack Kelly Clark

Just when I thought the garden was doing well, happy the bird situation seemed under control...that was when tragedy struck. Sure, I had noticed a few gopher mounds back in June. But when he/she seemed to be ignoring the garden, I didn't see the need for a pre-emptive strike. I figured the gopher had snooped around, decided it didn't like cruciferous vegetables and left the area. Big mistake!

After 2 weeks of vacation, I came back to discover 2 cauliflower, 3 broccoli and 1 spinach were missing. As they are all covered in cages, the evidence points to the gopher. Steam began coming out of my ears. "I trusted you!" I shouted.

Then, I marched over to have a chat with our Ag Assistant. I informed him that if he did not capture the gopher by Friday he would be fired. He has three traps in position and we are waiting on the results. The saddest thing is the new gopher mounds plowed right through where I planted my colored carrots.

Garden Utopia

Photo by Jack Kelly Clark

When we decided to plant a garden here at my work site, I was under the impression that we would create a garden utopia. The plants would flourish, the birds would sing, and an excellent demonstration garden would be born.

I was right about one thing...the birds are definitely singing. The reason? I just planted a few snacks for them, and in their own backyard no less. Meet my new arch nemesis, the white crowned sparrow. Oh yes, aren't they darling? Flitting through the trees and shrubs, warbling away while I unknowlingly planted some of their favorite snacks. Two local nurseries had donated 6 packs of broccoli, spinach, lettuce, onions, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and peas.

I did have this odd feeling that the birds were watching me as I planted, which I shook off as ridiculous. But after lunch I discovered 3 spinach and 2 lettuce plants had been eaten down to practically nothing. The next day, the peas were positively leafless, and I knew something had to be done.

I got out the chicken wire and with a lot of help made cages to protect the plants. Now, instead of a garden utopia, the site looks more like a battle zone. Just this morning I found a new gopher hole underneath the lettuce bed. I couldn't help feeling thankful that my livelihood was not dependent on this garden!!!

Roots, Leaves, Stems, Flowers, Fruits and Seeds!

Photo by Suzanne Paisley

Did you know that the food you eat is comprised of these plant parts? For example, when you eat broccoli, you eat a flower. Peas are seeds and so are pomegranates. Strawberries are fruits covered with seeds, and potatoes are underground stems. Lettuce is made up of leaves, carrots and radishes are roots and onions and garlic are bulbs.

The demonstration garden’s main purpose is to display the plant parts that humans consume. All of the fruits and vegetables we eat are comprised of roots, leaves, stems, flowers, bulbs, fruits and seeds. The goal of the garden is to showcase at least one from each of these categories at all times. The garden will be a great place for 4-6th grade teachers to address several of the California State Standards for science.

The irrigation is nearly complete, and we will begin planting vegetables, herbs and flowers in the next two weeks. The garden is based on Mel Bartholomew’s Square Foot Gardening principals. The front garden bed resembles a tic-tac-toe, and has nine sections that will be used for seasonal vegetables and flowers. The bed along the back part of the garden is bordered by a chain link fence where we will plant perennials like artichokes, asparagus and boysenberries (available in January as bare root plants) strawberries (in spring), as well as colorful fall flower bulbs. Both edible and sweet peas will be grown along the chain-link fence.

Grover Landscape, the Home Depot and Orchard Supply and Hardware donated compost and lumber. Scenic Nursery of Modesto donated seeds, and the Greenery in Turlock donated 6 packs of vegetables. Many thanks to all of these businesses. I’d also like to thank our intern Troy Webb, a student from CSU Stanislaus, who has been an integral part of planning the construction of the garden.

Community members are invited to drop by anytime to preview the progress of the garden, which is located behind the Stanislaus Building at our office on the corner of Crows Landing and Service Roads.

Gardening Tic-Tac-Toe

As you can see from the photo, our garden has made some progress! We have rototilled the garden (thanks dad!) and installed the beds. Isaiah and Troy played a game on the square foot gardening beds which made me LOL to see it.

It took about 3 mornings to get all the wood in place. We layed out the framing boards, staked them and drilled screws into the stakes and through the boards. The top part that looks like a tic-tac-toe will allow us to plant and weed without trampling the ground or the crops.

Our garden would not be what it is without the generous donation of soil and wood from local companies. I am hoping soon to fill it with celery, carrots, radishes, lettuce, sweet peas and other lovely green things. Stay tuned!

Gardening Snafus

The idea of starting a garden seems like a simple one. Add soil, seeds and water and PRESTO! You have a garden. That process in our case did not go as planned. Below is the best word I've found so far to describe our progress:

Snafu: a normal situation that has become foul.

Our garden project had created a buzz of excitement (ok, so maybe only in my ears, but excitement nonethess). Isaiah, the trusted Ag Assistant went with me to examine the rototiller I had spotted in our shop last week. While looking it over, it suddenly occured to me that assuming this dilapidated machine actually worked was a bit presumptious. It's origins where unknown, and it had come from a department store that has been defunct for over 10 years.

We filled the machine up with gas, and then tried to figure out how to start the thing. About 15 minutes into examining it, we realized the string hanging on the handle should be untied, and wrapped around a wheel on the front of the machine and pulled. On the 8th try (after much coughing) it actually started. Hooray! We were ready to till. We wheeled the machine out to the site and then tried to figure out how to get the tines into the ground...which was when we realized an essential part was missing: the belt connecting the motor to the tines. By this time it was 4:00 p.m. and we had to quit for the day.

The new plan is to have my father (who lives down the street and has been begged) come down with his rototiller and help till the bed tomorrow. If all goes well, we should be working on connecting the irrigation next week. Of course, this is assuming the irrigation parts in the shop are everything we need...maybe I should be planning for a spring garden?

Demo School Garden

I've been working with school gardens for about 5 years, and I'm often asked how to start one. These questions prompted me to begin the installation of a small garden at my work site. It's dimensions will total about 300 square feet. I will be blogging about it here as well as taking photo and video footage of the site.

I'm using the book Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew to design the garden. The book was was first published in 1981, and it's innovative methods have inspired many gardeners.

Often school and community gardens are created with great enthusiasm, only to fall into disrepair and weediness. Much of this has to do with overplanting, something Mr. Bartholomew's book discusses. Although a packet of carrot seeds contains over 1,500 seeds, don't be tempted to plant all of them at once. The work involved in thinning is eliminated using the square foot gardening method. Thinning your crops is the greatest chore in many gardens aside from weeding. In Square Foot Gardening, gardeners plant less seeds and enjoy their garden more.

You'll be able to watch the creation of the garden through the photos posted here. Please feel free to comment and share your experiences.

Growing Carrots

(photo by Aziz Bauameur)

As both a horticulturist and a gardener, I’m constantly on the lookout for new and exciting vegetable varieties. An article in Small Farm News (Volume 2, 2007) regarding carrots by Aziz Bauameur recently caught my attention.

The University of California Cooperative Extension is researching the performance of various carrot types to determine their yield in a small farm setting. The carrots in the study include shades of white, red, green, yellow, purple and almost black. The reason carrots in grocery stores today are orange dates back to the 15th century. During this time, the Netherlands was in a struggle for independence. The House of Orange developed the orange carrot as a patriotic emblem. The color stuck, and orange remains the most popular carrot color in the Western part of the world.

Locally, I visited several nurseries and garden centers looking for unusual seed colors. I didn't have much luck, but did find a seed packet called “Rainbow” which is a blend of orange, white and yellow carrot varieties. Nursery employees assured me that colorful carrot seeds can be ordered upon request. They can also be found online at Kitchen Garden Seeds, Territorial Seed Company or Kitazawa Seed Company. Each of these companies has a great selection colored carrots. However, at this time I have been unable to locate sources of green or black carrot variety seeds.

In my garden I will be growing “Purple Dragon,” “Atomic Red,” “Yellowstone,” “Snow White,” “Solar Yellow,” “Lunar White,” “Purple Haze,” and “Kyoto Red.”

I’m using Mel Bartholomew’s "Square Foot Gardening" as a guide for planting carrots. He advises not to overplant, which often happens when planting seed. When seeds sprout, many gardeners are overwhelmed with the chore of thinning. Although carrot seeds are tiny, the author does not advise sprinkling them along a row. Instead, in an area that is 4'x4', he divides the plot into 16, 1’squares by tracing it with a finger. He adds a single seed to each small square and covers it lightly.

Carrot seeds germinate best when soil has good drainage and is free of dirt clods. Add compost to the soil and mix to a depth of at least 12 inches. Keep soil moist while seeds sprout, as this can take up to 2 weeks. Carrot seeds can be easily washed away, so water lightly. During this warm month of August, do not let the soil crack or crust over.

We will be installing a school garden demonstration plot here at the Cooperative Extension behind our building. I’ll be blogging about its progress as well as the carrot patch at here. Please feel free to make comments or detail your experiences with growing carrots or gardening in general. Or send me an e-mail at aschellman@ucdavis.edu

Bug Collecting

Photo by John Bokma
One early spring morning as I approached my office door, I spotted a huge black bumble bee on the ground. It had died in such a graceful state, that it inspired me to start a bug collection.

I showed the gorgeous specimen to my boss, who informed me that my bumble bee was actually a female carpenter bee. The way to tell a female carpenter bee from a bumble bee is to look at the abdomen. The abdomen of the carpenter bee is shiny with fringes of hairs on some segments. The bumble bee has a fuzzy abdomen.

The female carpenter bee is mostly solitary, and spends its days foraging for nectar among flowers. The male carpenter bee spends his time defending the home, although ironically he does not have a stinger, but his aggressive behavior wards off most would-be predators.

The bees make their home in wood that has depressions or cracks in it. This makes it easier for them to chew their tunnels, which can be up to 10 feet long! Here is a photo of both specimens from my collection:

If you would prefer not to have these bees living in wood near your home, avoid keeping extra wood near your house, and paint over depressions in wood-based structures. For more information, see UC publication:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7417.html

School Gardens

School gardens have existed since the advent of kindergarten (1840). Activity-based learning was the idea of educator Friedrich Froebel. He believed that observing and nurturing plants in a garden stimulated a child's awareness of the natural world.

The development of childhood obesity in our society has prompted educators to look at school gardens with renewed interest. A garden can easily become an "outdoor classroom" where students learn about history, literature, math, reading and writing. It's also a place where they can develop healthier eating choices by growing their own food. Current UC Davis research proves this, in the work of Morris and Zidenberg-Cherr's which shows that 4th grader's school knowledge of nutrition and preferences for some vegetables can be enhanced by using garden-based curriculum. There are many other studies that show how growing food helps children make healthier food choices and exposes them to food they may not have tried before.

I've recently taken a part-time position to advocate better eating and nutrition through the use of school gardens. I will be visiting local schools and demonstrating the use of UC Davis curriculum to teachers. Researchers aim to make curriculum easy to use, while basing it on California State Standards. The idea is to help teachers fulfill their duties while at the same time addressing the issues of obesity. For more information, contact me at aschellman@ucdavis.edu

Insects in Your Garden

In California, more than 30,000 types of insects are known. In spring, it may seem that most of them are in your backyard. This is because warm temperatures are ideal for many insect lifecycles. After just a few warm days, large populations can hatch and inhabit fruit trees, shrubs and vegetable beds. Aphids, for example, may seem to multiply overnight. Hoplia beetles are another insect frequently seen in the garden, especially on light colored roses.

While trying to eliminate these pests from your garden, remember that other insects live there too, and frequently consume insect pests. The use of insecticides, even organic ones, may have a negative impact on beneficials. Always read labels carefully, and avoid spraying when beneficial insects such as honeybees are active.

The number of destructive insects in general is actually quite small in comparison with those that are beneficial or neutral. Beneficial insects eat pests, pollinate crops and decompose waste material. These insects include ladybugs, preying mantids, spiders, assassin bugs, and ground beetles.

Beneficial insects feed in two ways: predation or parasitism. Predation is the method most gardeners are familiar with, the typical ladybug eating an aphid. Parasitism is not as easy to spot. To find an example, observe that same population of aphids, but look closer. If you see small, round, papery-thin objects with a tiny hole, you’ve spotted an example of parasitism. This remnant was actually an aphid, and is now known as a “mummy.” When it was alive, this aphid was parasitized by a tiny wasp (not the same kind that inflicts a painful sting). The wasp laid an egg inside the aphid, the egg hatched, fed on the aphid from inside, and then crawled out, leaving a small exit hole.

Spiders are another creature commonly found in the garden, and sometimes the house. They are not considered insects, but are in a class known as arachnids. Spiders are excellent predators and can be very helpful in the garden. Two “spiders” that are often confused are the harvestman (not a true spider) and the cellar spider.

Harvestman and Cellar Spider

Both of these creatures are reputed to have poisonous venom, which is not true. The harvestman does not have venom, and the cellar spider’s venom is harmless to humans.

In closing, knowledge is the key to overcoming myth and fear. Now that you know how harmless these two species are, having them in your garden or home might be considered a bonus. :)

Garden Journals

Growing vegetables is hard work, and should not be attempted by couch potatoes, according to Robert Norris, a retired weed science professor from UC Davis. Norris has been gardening in the Central Valley for over 30 years, and through trial and error, has discovered many valuable insights. I had the opportunity to hear him speak in Stockton this past week.

What impressed me most about Norris’ presentation was that it was based on his garden journal. Every year he recorded planted varieties success and failure rates. He even kept track of how many pounds of vegetables harvested from each plant to help him determine the most productive varieties.

During his speech he made this interesting statement: “There is no such thing as a bad tomato year.” Norris noted that when many gardeners report low quantities of tomatoes harvested, tomato farmers never seem to have this problem. Why? “Farmers know which varieties to plant, while home gardeners are planting the wrong kinds of tomato.

When a tomato plant fails to “set”, the blossom drops off instead of developing into a fruit. As a horticulturist, I (the author) tell people this has to do with temperature fluctuations. During cold weather, a gardener can spray blossoms with a fruit setting hormone to prevent blossom drop; however, nothing can be done to prevent a tomato plant from dropping flowers when daytime temperatures exceed 92°F.

Norris has yet to have a bad crop of tomatoes, because he chooses varieties that have the ability to set fruit in hot weather, the most critical factor for ensuring a good harvest. Most heirloom varieties do not have this ability, which is why success with fruit set may be spotty.

Norris has had success with varieties such as Big Beef, Burpee 4th of July and Park’s Whopper. Local nurseries and garden centers also carry tomatoes successful in our area, such as Better Boy, Early Girl and Ace. Norris also mentioned that he only chooses tomato varieties with the acronyms VFNT or at least VFN in the name. This is because tomatoes are susceptible to verticillium and fusarium wilt, nematodes and the tobacco mosaic virus. Varieties with the mentioned acronyms are resistant to these problems.

None of Robert Norris’ work is University researched material, it’s simply information he has learned over his lifetime. He noted that it would be difficult for him to remember past gardening experience without the reference of his garden journal.

It’s easy to get stuck on a certain variety, for example my favorite, the heirloom tomato Brandywine. It tastes like it has been salted and is extremely juicy. Unfortunately, in certain years I have limited success in getting fruit set. So although I haven’t given up on Brandywine, I plant plenty of other varieties

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle

If you haven't read this book, you might want to pick it up. Barbara Kingsolver is a well-known author of quite a few tomes, but in this one, she switches from fiction to non-fiction. The book chronicles a year in the life of her family as they move from the south-west to Appalachia.

Not only do they move, they decide to change their entire lifestyle by growing almost everything they eat, or at least getting it as local as possible if they can't make it themselves. They avoid foods not grown in their area such as bananas, although each member of the family is allowed to keep one vice.

The book is lyrical and prose-like at times, and full of recipes and canning methods that would make almost anybody want to have a farm, or at least a small garden. Their new lifestyle is not easy, and Kingsolver discusses the bumps in the road that eventually smooth out or at least teach an important lesson.

This book is also "laugh out loud" funny. It's available in hardback for sale, or check it out at the local library.

Blueberries

Photo by Jack Kelly Clark
Blueberries belong to the family Ericaceae, which include azaleas and rhododendrons. Most gardeners will recognize this plant family as one that does best in acidic soil (4.5-5.5). Stanislaus County soils range in pH from 5 to 7.5, so most garden soils will need to be amended. To determine the pH level of your home garden soil, use a simple pH soil test kit.

Apartment gardeners or gardeners with limited space can grow blueberries in containers. Use an acidic planting mix specifically for azalea type plants and use a soil pH test kit to determine when to add amendments.

Before planting blueberries in your garden, amend the soil with elemental sulfur at a rate of approximately 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet to lower the pH one unit. Aluminum sulfate can also be used, at the rate of 6-12 pounds per 100 square unit.

To keep the soil at the optimum pH, side dress with a 10-10-10 fertilizer four weeks after planting, preferably one composed of potassium sulfate and ammonium sulfate. Use about 1 oz. (1 ½ tbsp) per plant, sprinkling it within 12-18 inches of the plant, but not directly on the crown or stems. Keep your soil test kit handy to determine when to apply more fertilizer. Once the plants reach maturity, fertilizer can be used at a rate of ½ cup per plant 3-4 times per year. Start fertilizing in spring and continue at 2 month intervals. Organic fertilizers such as feather, blood or fish meal can also be used at the rate of one pound per plant.

Plant blueberries in a sunny location and in raised beds that are 8-18 inches high and 3-4 feet wide. Space plants 8-10 feet apart, and cover the roots with 1-2 inches of soil. Lightly firm the soil around the plants and water thoroughly.

Blueberries have shallow, fibrous roots and need adequate drainage and aeration. They are very susceptible to drought injury, and for optimum health should receive 1-2 inches of water per week from May through September. During July and August, water two times per week to prevent them from drying out. The balance between adequate moisture and too much water is important, as blueberries are susceptible to root rot. The best method of watering is to use minisprinkler irrigation. A drip system can also be used, with a line running on each side of the blueberry plants.

It will take at least three years for a blueberry plant to become established and healthy. Remove all blossoms as they appear. Prune off any diseased and damaged wood during the first three dormant seasons. After their third year, blueberries should be pruned annually.

Blueberry plants have a naturally bushy form, but the number of canes should be limited to the age of the plant, up to a maximum of 6 to 8 canes for old bushes. Yearly remove 1-2 canes so that no canes are over 4-6 years old. Prune out suckers and weak wood, especially from the top of the plant.

Apples

Photo by Jack Kelly Clark

My last post was about consuming local foods as a matter of taste. In this one, I just want to mention a little bit more information about apples. Apple crops need a certain amount of chilling time, something more readily available in our northern states. However, there are some apple varieties that do well locally. There were even a few vendors at the farmers market selling apples last month.

For your own backyard, there are varieties available from local nurseries that do well. My father has a granny smith apple that has great apples, tart at first but actually sweet if left on the tree long enough.

In the supermarket, apples are available year-round. Apples from Washington are available past their picking time, because they are kept in storage facilities that enable them to retain their flavor.

I've had fuji apples from New Zealand that are actually quite good. Possibly they have found a way to breed this variety so it can retain flavor over many miles. Apples I've tasted from Chile have so far been rather disappointing.

Supermarkets have to keep a steady supply of apples, so they work with vendors to ensure this. If apples are available from two places at the same time, the supermarket most likely chooses the one with the lowest price.

Regional Food Systems

Recently I attended a meeting at the Great Valley Center (http://www.greatvalley.org/) about regional food systems. We discussed local food and how it moves through the system, and also the quality of food available in the Central Valley for purchase. We also discussed the definition of local, something that most people agreed was the area of California.

The best place to find locally grown produce is The Modesto Farmers Market, which takes place behind the Stanislaus County library. The 2007 season is May5-Dec5. It's a great place and has delicious produce.

Life is busy, and it's difficult to make healthy food choices. This is why I do try to buy locally grown produce when possible. My main motivation is taste. I grew up eating fruits and veggies from my grandfather's farm. If you've grown your own carrots, then you know what a REAL carrot should taste like. You aren't fooled by the dry, wilty substitutes found in most markets that have been trucked many miles.

I can't say this is a study I've conducted, or verified research, but from my own tiniest point of view in the food web, the fresher the food, the better the taste. Therefore, it makes the most sense to buy locally grown food. But how do you know what is local or the most local if you can't visit a farmers market?

Here's a familiar story: a man goes to the supermarket today and buys some peaches. He has no way of knowing the local season for them is long past. He gets home, eagerly bites into the fruit, but finds it is dry, mealy and inedible. Disgusted, he throws it in the trash can and vows never to shop at that market again. Or that he doesn't like peaches.

I imagine this scenario happens frequently, with the sad consequence of less people consuming fresh fruits and vegetables.

A truly tasty peach is picked at the height of its ripeness (June-August in our area). One bite causes a large amount of juice to dribble down your chin. A peach grown south of the border may be in season there, but it's from a variety chosen for it's durability.

And here's the sad part: local farmers are tearing out peach orchards because there is no longer a market for them. They can't sell their peaches fresh or canned. This all has to do with economics, availability, the world market, changes in consumer desires and the price of land in California. It's a sad cycle, but I think it's one we can slow down somewhat.

If you're interested in fresh produce, start by learning a little bit more about the seasons (check out the link below), then, ask your grocer for local produce. Chances are, they may be able to find something you are looking for, and other people will be interested in, too.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/ck_cg_produce_guide/

When you shop, think about geography. An apple from Washington will taste fresher than one from NZ or Chile. And I think that's something worthing paying a few extra cents (or dollars) per pound.

Alliums in Your Garden

Onion photo byEvett Kilmartin

Alliums are a genus of plants that have provided flavorful seasoning in food for thousands of years. Onions and garlic were two of the most important crops consumed in ancient Egypt.

Edible Alliums
The following are the Latin names of edible alliums, and show how they are separated into different species:
A. cepa: onion
A. ascalonicum: shallot
A. sativum: garlic
A. ampeloprasum: leek, elephant garlic

The reason I call these plants "edible alliums" is because there are also inedible alliums, which make attractive flowers and are sold as bulbs in nurseries and garden centers. Chives are also alliums, but are not mentioned in this post. For more information on chives and other herbs, go to http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/filelibrary/2193/41502.pdf

Onions
Onions can be white, red or yellow and come in many sizes. Their flavors are categorized as sweet, mild or pungent.

Garlic
Garlic is composed of about 10 bulbs contained in a papery skin. It has a unique, pungent aroma that separates it from other alliums.

Scallions & Green Onions
Botanical references define scallions as any young crop of onion, shallot or leek. For most purposes, the terms scallion and green onion can be used interchangeably.

Shallots
Shallots are composed of cloves encased in a papery skin. Shallots have a sweeter, milder flavor than onions and are usually coppery in color, although they can be gray or pink.

Leeks
Leeks have a mild, onion taste and are popular for use in soup. Surprisingly, elephant garlic is also a leek. It shares the same shape as ordinary garlic, but not its pungent taste. Elephant garlic has a softer flavor and its cloves can be roasted and spread like butter.

To read the rest of this publication, click on the link below and choose "Alliums in Your Garden"
http://cestanislaus.ucdavis.edu/Gardening/Gardening_Articles.htm

Happy Gardening!

Carnivorous Plants

The Conservatory of Flowers in San Francisco is currently running it's carnivorous plant show called "Chomp." The event started in May, and will end November 4th. The plants are on loan from California Carnivores in Sebastopol.

The main plants on display are flytraps, pitchers, sundews and bladderworts. Over 600 types of carnivorous plants have been discovered in existence, although many are now extinct.

Carnivorous plants live on almost every continent (except Antarctica) and in every state in the U.S. Most are rare, and poaching (stealing plants from the wild) is common. Housing developments, the loss of peat bogs (sold as peat moss in stores), acid rain and global warming contribute to the loss of plants. Sadly, only 3-5% remain in the wild.

Q. Why do carnivorous plants capture flies and other insects (and sometime lizards, frogs and small monkeys)?

A. The places that carnivorous plants live are usually low in soil and water nutrients. Over time these plants developed features (leaves) that capture insects to add in their diet.

Types of plants and their trapping methods:
1. The Venus Flytrap: when small trigger hairs on the leaves are touched twice within about 30 seconds, a trap will close within one second. Then, the trap tightens and finally seals.

2. The Pitcher Plant: has small pitchers (actually leaves) that are inviting to insects. Once an insect crawls into the pitcher, it is difficult to crawl back out. Tiny hairs all point downward to the bottom of the plant, which is often filled with digestive juices.

3. The Sundews: these plants have a sticky substance on tentacles attached to their leaves. The "dew" is a mixture of nectar, adhesive compounds and digestive juices. Insects literally stick to them like flypaper.

4. Bladderworts: a curious plant whose interesting behaviour was discovered in 1876 by a woman scientist named Mary Treat. The trap is set by the action of pumping water out of the bladder, resulting in lower water pressure inside. An insect that bumps against the "door" of the bladder triggers the bladder and sucks the insect in within 1/30th of a second! The "door" then shuts behind them, sealing them in forever, BWAH HA HA! (couldn't help that) Scientists are still not exactly sure if the insect is attracted to the plant or just wanders by.

The site below mentions places where you can visit these plants that are complete with boardwalks for viewing. Venus flytraps are indigenous to North and South Carolina. They have been introduced to other states though, and can be found growing in other states.

Growing carnivorous plants isn't easy. I have never tried, but after viewing the exhibit am enthusiastic about purchasing some. It's important to buy plants from reputable nurseries who do not collect specimens from the wild. This link will list several places worldwide that carry specimens checked by a reputable source. http://www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq6280.html

Here is the start of that website for easier navigation: http://www.sarracenia.com/faq.html

above photos by Holly Guenther